A Little Paris Night Life for the Solo Traveler

(Feb-March 2023) When I found myself alone in Paris earlier this year, I realized I needed to adjust my approach to planning fun and interesting activities, compared to when Bob is there with me. By all accounts, traveling solo in Paris by day is very safe – aside from a few near-misses with pickpockets over the years, I have never felt like I was physically in danger while on the streets or in the Métro. Staying busy after dark, however, was something new, so I had to give it some careful thought. Before leaving for my trip, I made arrangements for some stimulating activities that wouldn’t take me too far off the beaten path, and would place me among groups of like-minded people, all making the most of their time in Paris.

One of those activities is a night at the movies – a French movie, with English subtitles, that is. Lost in Frenchlation was conceived by a Franco-Australian couple, Manon and Matt who, frustrated by Matt’s inability to enjoy French movies because of his lack of French language skills, decided to do something about it. With the cooperation of several independent Parisian movie theaters, around once a week, Lost in Frenchlation offers an evening’s entertainment that includes a pre-movie cocktail hour, screening of a newly released French film with English subtitles, often followed by a Q&A with film crewmembers. (https://lostinfrenchlation.com/)

While I’ve never been the most outgoing person, I am determined to make the most of my time in Paris, so I head out with ample time to make the social hour at le Cinéma Arlequin, in the 6th Arrondissement. There is a decent-sized crowd milling around the small downstairs bar when I arrive, so I grab a glass of wine and eventually strike up a conversation with a couple from Los Angeles who explain that they split their time between the States and their rented apartment in Paris. I genuinely appreciate their friendliness, as they urge me to find a seat with them and a few other friends they are meeting up with for the evening. Before the film begins, we are entertained by a young man playing show tunes on a baby grand piano. Comme c’est génial!

The movie “Maestro(s),” is engaging enough – I suppose I’m there more for the overall experience. At the end of the film, my new companions and I exchange Facebook handles and say our goodbyes, and I make my way back to my little haven in the Marais by 10:30 p.m., safe and sound, and quite pleased with myself for having stepped outside of my comfort zone that evening.

Another evening during my solo travel adventure, I head to the Latin Quarter to check out Le Caveau de la Huchette. This jazz club has been going strong since 1949, playing host to some of the greats, including Lionel Hampton, Count Basie and Art Blakey. Its basement-like setting is said to have inspired Beatles’ hangout, The Cavern Club in Liverpool, and it has appeared in scenes from several movies, including the 2016 film “La La Land.” (http://www.caveaudelahuchette.fr/)

Bob and I have passed Le Caveau multiple times in our meanderings and have always said we should come back later for some live music. This evening I go it alone, and I’m not disappointed. The band tonight has more of a blues vibe, but either way, the crowd is energized by the loud, funky rhythms and several people hit the dance floor. It’s an oddly square room with seating all around it, making the floor in the middle and the dancers very much the center of attention.

Because of the late hour, I only stay for one drink, then head out to make my way home on foot. Even though my route takes me through the imposing old townhouse neighborhood of the very upscale Ile St. Louis, I can’t help feeling a little bit creeped out. The streets are almost too quiet and I feel utterly alone. My walk accelerates to a trot as I pass down a side street, my one consolation being that I know the street will lead out to the banks of the Seine and Pont Louis-Philippe, which crosses directly into my neighborhood. Safely back at the apartment, I reflect on another entertaining evening to cap off another great day!

Paris is full of music venues, including one very small, discrete place called Le 38 Riv Jazz Club. That’s 38 Rue de Rivoli, to be precise, and what is so significant about this location is just how close it is to the apartment. After venturing on my own to Le Caveau de la Huchette, it will be nice to not stray too far from home. Bob and I have been to 38 Riv once before, and really enjoyed the excellent music by the extremely skilled musicians in a(nother) basement room that can only be described as toute petite, with a bar in the back and seating for only about 35 people. (https://www.38riv.com/)

This night is no different from our prior experience, with an enthusiastic crowd warming up to the musical trio whose original and intricate jazz pieces entertain thoroughly for two sets. Stepping outside in the end, I find myself not quite ready to call it a night, so I stroll the quick two blocks to Bob’s and my favorite bar, the self-proclaimed ”first Scottish pub in Paris,” The Auld Alliance. That most of the bartenders are Irish and the owner is French matters not. It’s the convivial vibe at The Auld Alliance that drew us in initially and that keeps us coming back every time we’re in town. (https://theauldalliance.com/)

Nick, the manager, recognizes me right away and asks after Bob. Another bartender named Sam (also Irish) who has clocked out of work but is hanging around for a pint, pulls up a bar stool for me, and just like that, I am ensconced and utterly enthralled for the rest of the evening by their open, jovial and often very silly banter. Who can resist a cold beer and a chat with the Irish in a Scottish bar in Paris?

As much as I love sharing new experiences with friends and especially with Bob, I have to say, my solo travel experience during this trip could not have been more satisfying and I feel so grateful to be right where I am.