Bike Riding in Paris and That Tower – The Ultimate Reward

(11/7/22) A distinct pleasure for me when visiting Paris is going for a nice long walk -- or wander, depending on the agenda for the day. The city is known for being highly walkable – not only is it a manageable size, but the walker is constantly rewarded with breathtaking views of historic buildings and monuments, very regularly interspersed with inviting parks, brasseries and terraced cafés. Walking or wandering aimlessly, taking in the sites of the city, is such a favored pastime in France that it even has its own name: to flâner. The person who does the flâner-ing is called a flâneur.

Anne Hidalgo, mayor of Paris since 2014, believes passionately in making her city as pedestrian-friendly as possible, investing millions of euros in developing and improving sidewalks and turning previously car-friendly streets pedestrian-only. And in that same vein, she has devoted an equally impressive amount of effort and money into creating bike lanes throughout the city. Even traffic-heavy boulevards such as Rue de Rivoli, the city’s main commercial street, have been turned over almost entirely to cyclists, a move that has aroused the consternation of many Parisians, but one which is lauded by city planners, ecologists and cycling enthusiasts worldwide. (Sources: https://www.politico.eu/ and https://momentummag.com/)

Whatever the history or circumstances of this development, Bob and I are happy to make use of the plentiful bike lanes. We have reserved two sturdy city bikes at Le Peleton Café, located right around the corner from the apartment, and today we’re preparing for a jaunt across town. Emboldened by our maiden ride in July 2021, during which we successfully navigated our way to the Bois de Vincennes, one of the city’s two very large, wooded parks, not to mention our recent trip to bike-crazy Amsterdam, we quickly saddle up and head for an unmissable destination, the Eiffel Tower.

While Bob is being Bob, opting to ride bareheaded, I decide against death by misadventure by donning the proffered bike helmet, and after confirming our route on trusty Google Maps, we head westward. One of the easiest and safest routes is the pedestrianized Voie Georges Pompidou, which lines the Seine River. The main challenge here is avoiding the multitude of runners, walkers, scooters and other cyclists who flock to the riverbanks every day. It’s worth the effort, though, as this is the best way to get an up-close view of the majestic, muddy river and its beautiful, historic bridges.

Eventually, we surface to the street level at Quai de la Mégisserie and head across the river on Pont Neuf, which, despite the name, is the city's oldest bridge. Now on the Left Bank, we work our way through the circuitous streets, past the Rodin Museum and onto the Boulevard des Invalides next to the final resting place of Napoléon 1st. While this isn’t the most direct route to the Eiffel Tower, I have in mind a stop for coffee and a snack at Coutume, a decidedly untouristy, very popular locals’ café, which I had gleaned from my pages-long list of YouTube vlogger recommendations. Afterwards, sufficiently caffeinated and sugared, we continue on our trek to the Eiffel Tower.

From this spot, the Champ de Mars is only a 7-minute ride – we spend that time on the approach gawking at the massive tower as it swings into view. Both Bob and I have visited the Eiffel Tower before, so it’s not our intention necessarily to go up in it again. After all, you can skip the hassle of waiting in line and get nearly the same panoramic view of the city from atop the more easily accessible Arc de Triomphe or the Tour Montparnasse, or even the rooftop bar at the Terrass Hotel in hilly Montmartre, but what I think is so special about the Eiffel Tower is the approach to it. From pretty much any direction, the view leading up to the 1,083-foot, pyramidical tower is spectacular. And when you have almost reached it, you’re looking up and you’re almost standing under it, it really does take your breath away.

This is without a doubt the most recognizable monument in the world. I feel it is the symbol of France whose feminine outline truly does evoke romance, and whose nightly sparkling light show can’t help but inspire awe in virtually anyone who witnesses it. The Eiffel Tower is a big part of what makes Paris so remarkably unique, a mystique that somehow we never tire of, that keeps so many of us coming back, time after time, for just one more view.