Discovering New Morning

(10/27/22) Unwinding is easy at the apartment. Physically exhausted as we are, it’s such a relief to have an elevator to take us to the third floor (the fourth floor for an American, since the French don’t count the ground floor; they call that the rez-de-chaussée). Despite the advanced age of the building, the engineers who did the last major renovation in the 1960s effectively joined together Numbers 11 and 13, thereby doubling the building’s width, and had the foresight to install a small elevator, considered a true luxury for most Parisian buildings. While this elevator is small by American standards, the fact that it fits two adults and their luggage, makes it a rarity indeed!

The apartment is a real gem, not only because of its beautiful décor, but because it’s the product of a truly masterful design. Adrian Leeds’ longtime interior design partner, Martine di Matteo has done the seemingly impossible, neatly fitting a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom with spacious shower, queen-sized bed, dining space and more storage than you can shake a stick at, all in a space of 18 meters squared. If you don’t know what that means, think teeny tiny.

After quickly unpacking, using the tall chest of drawers and wardrobes, and storing our suitcases, Bob and I sink into the very inviting bed where we snooze for several hours. I’ve heard it said that after flying on a red-eye, travelers should force themselves to stay awake until the “bedtime” of the place they are visiting. I don’t really buy that. I’ve been so wound up over this trip for so long, if I can finally relax enough to fall asleep, I’m going to take advantage!

It's also a good idea to get some rest because we have tickets to hear some live music this evening. I have been wanting to visit New Morning since 2020, the first time that COVID shut down our Paris plans, so I’m truly jazzed (no pun intended) to be finally going. New Morning is a well-respected music venue established in 1981 with an impressive calendar full of jazz, blues, rock, soul, you name it. Tonight, we will be hearing The Rebecca Vasmant Ensemble from Glasgow, Scotland. The opener is Jeanne Michard Latin Trio from Paris. The club is in the 10th arrondissement close to many other music and arts venues. This neighborhood is for the young and hip, the truly branché. Bob and I are drawn to the music scene, but as for branché, well, we’re merely observers.

The club is surprisingly well-appointed. I had expected more of a divey, Villagey vibe, but not only are there neat rows of seats, a long bar with plenty of seating, and plush carpeting, the sound system looks impressively advanced. When the music begins, we are swept off our feet. The acoustics are great. Both acts are very entertaining, both terrific to hear and to watch, with beautiful, young, energetic and enthusiastic players. I would love to go back to check out more of the artists on New Morning’s calendar.

But this is the thing with Paris: discovering a new venue or new exhibit, a new site, inevitably exposes you to more new things. The more you see and do, the more you realize there is to see and do. And our time is always limited. For me, this is a happy conundrum in which to find oneself. I’m forever thrilled to be here, in a place that offers such a plethora of cultural experiences, each new day spilling over with marvelous abundance.