L’Hôtel Particulier and the Musée Nissim de Camondo

(11/5/22) More than almost anything else, the City of Light is renowned for its contributions to the worlds of both art and fashion. A significant part of that world is the distinctive Parisian architecture that makes images of Paris so instantly recognizable. Haussmannian style, the result of the vision of City Planner George-Eugène Haussmann, who was active in the latter half of the 19th century, followed strict guidelines for building height and appearance. Haussmann’s urban renewal project was such a success that more than 40,000 Parisian buildings now share this distinctive appearance (www.unjourdeplusaparis.com; Photo: Getty Images/James Farley).

During this late 19th century time period known as La Belle Époche, many of the city’s wealthy elite built hôtels particulier. Not to be confused with a Marriott or a Hilton, these hôtels are actually private mansions. Today, Bob and I are heading to the upscale 8th Arrondissement to visit the Musée Nissim de Camondo, a hôtel particulier turned museum.

The hôtel was built in 1911 by Count Moïse de Camondo, a wealthy Jewish banker, whose plan in building the house was to highlight his very large collection of 18th century furniture and art objects. Designed after Le Petit Trianon, Marie Antoinette’s (comparatively) “petite” palace at Versailles, de Camondo’s mansion, however, would have modern conveniences. (Facts and Photo: Wikipedia)

The visit to the museum is self-guided, so we make our way from room to room, including the kitchen with its immense ovens and modern (for the time) features.

The ornate 17th century furniture and housewares arrayed throughout the house, including several pieces originally belonging to Marie Antoinette herself, are beautiful, but there is an atmosphere of somber formality to each room. As we reach the 2nd floor and the end of the visit, we enter a room full of informative placards explaining de Camondo’s family history as well as the circumstances of his final years. In anguish over the death of his son, Nissim, in World War I, de Camondo never regained his joie de vivre and the house mostly sat quiet and nearly empty until his death in 1935.

Sadly, despite their wealth and place as members of the French haute bourgeoisie, de Camondo’s daughter Béatrice, her husband and their two children were deported in 1944 to the Auschwitz concentration camp, where they perished before the end of the war.

After the visit, somewhat in need of a breath of fresh air, we’re delighted and relieved to discover that the rear garden of the hôtel backs up to the lovely Parc Monceau, established in 1779 by Phillipe d'Orléans, Duke of Chartres. Full of mature trees, greenery and plenty of trails for exploring, there’s also a Roman colonnade and, surprisingly, a replica of an ancient Egyptian pyramid. (Facts and Photo: Wikipedia).

Continuing on, we realize we are a very short walk away from the grand majesty of the Arc de Triomphe. A half a block from the Arc, we pop into the very warm and inviting brasserie, The Place to…Wagram, for a Happy Hour beverage. Most every place in this neighborhood seems to be a cut above, a bit more haute de gamme. As I sip my wine, I reflect back on today’s visit and the ironic tragedy of a wealthy banking family seemingly safely ensconced in their fantastic mansion in one of the most beautiful places in the world.