Samaritaine and the Battle of the Red Berets

(11/6/22) I have the great good fortune of having been born into a large family of all girls. In my teen years, my three sisters and I, along with our sweet, supportive and very generous mother, made a bi-weekly ritual out of heading to the local shopping mall, allowance in hand, to buy whatever our young hearts desired, as long as it cost less than $20.

I have never lost my love of clothes shopping, and a good department store, especially one that can be counted on to seriously slash its prices at the end of the season, is much more likely to get my business than a trendy boutique. That is why I’m instinctively drawn to Parisian department stores. But while the concept is the same -- a large variety of artistically displayed merchandise all under one roof -- the department stores of Paris have very little in common with the Bamberger’s and Hecht Company of my youth.

Les Grands Magasins, such as Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Le Bon Marché, BHV (Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville) and Samaritaine are iconic works of architectural splendor. A visit to one of these titans of the retail world can elicit eye-popping wonder and breathless awe – not just because of their design and décor, but also because of their sky-high prices. While I am an avid fan of fashion, and will even spend time poring over Vogue magazine from time to time, I have never been one to splurge on a Chanel bag or a Prada jacket. (Photo: Wikipedia)

The exorbitant prices, however, will not keep me from looking, so today Bob and I are heading to Samaritaine in the 1st Arrondissement, within easy walking distance of the apartment, and this 19th century palace of luxury does not disappoint. After a much-lamented closure in 2005 and subsequent purchase and renovation in 2010 by ”luxury-goods behemoth” LVMH (parent company to the hyper-successful Louis Vuitton brand), Samaritaine reopened its doors in 2021 to largely enthusiastic reviews. The two-building complex now also houses a 5-star Cheval Blanc Group hotel, a luxury spa, a beauty salon and a concierge, among other high-end services (Parisunlocked.com).

As we pass under the store’s imposing façade and enter to make our way through the first few departments, we are drawn to the open staircase with its impressive steel-beam construction and seven-story atrium with skylight. I had heard there was a lounge on the top level, so after touring through a few levels of clothing, accessories, perfume and makeup counters, we head up. The view from the top is gorgeous, the walls lined on all sides in bright yellow floral print Art Nouveau murals. Some Christmas decorations with lights have already been put up, adding to the bright, festive atmosphere.

At the 7th floor lounge, Bob and I are led to a table in the row closest to the walkway where we order our tasty beverages (it’s Happy Hour, right?) and set about people-watching from our airy perch. The French have turned people-watching into a national pastime, so why not join them? Groups of shoppers and curious site-seers pass us by, clearly eager to catch views of the atrium as well as panoramic views of the city from the large windows spaced throughout the floor.

Two young women approach. One of them is holding a camera with a large telephoto lens on a tripod. The other is dressed in a cream-colored trench coat and bright red French beret. It’s clear they have come here with a plan to set up an impromptu photo shoot. Bob and I nudge each other and focus our attention on the pair. Their serious intensity and determination to get the perfect shot is not rewarded, however, as, time and again, they are foiled by other shoppers strolling by, unknowingly ruining the shot – a classic photobomb situation.

This goes on for a good ten minutes, as the two young women attempt over and over to get the right shot. By now, Bob and I have spotted another pair of young women, let’s call them interlopers, on the prowl for a good photo opportunity. In fact, one of them is also dressed in a trench coat and bright red beret. This is too perfect!

The two pairs spot each other; will it be a red beret standoff? As they pass each other on the walkway near us, there is a palpable awkwardness in the air. At this point, however, the original couple reluctantly begin to pack up their equipment and move on, allowing the new couple to snap a few photos of their own. Bob and I share quiet grins, and contentedly finish our Happy Hour drinks.

In a city where the selfie stick is as ubiquitous as the baguette, and the self-image that one transmits to the world has taken on monumental importance – to the point where couples are now literally standing in the middle of traffic on a busy boulevard to get the “perfect snap” of themselves in front of the Eiffel Tower, I take comfort in knowing that no matter what angle I view Paris from, it will always be the perfect shot.