The Village on the Hill – a World Apart

(11/7/22) Earlier today, Bob and I successfully biked to la Tour Eiffel and back, and now, conscious of the clock speedily ticking away the remaining days of our trip, we take a little pause at the apartment to change clothes and recharge our batteries with a light snack, then head back out for more flaneur-ing.

Among all of the neighborhoods in Paris, the thought of a visit to Montmartre always seems to elicit a small frisson of anticipation. This village on the hill, not even incorporated into Paris until 1860, is truly a world apart. Loaded with interesting things to see and do, from the imposing and majestic Basilique du Sacré Coeur to the narrow, cobbled streets lined with shops, quaint restaurants and even a working winery with vinyard – from the flashy Moulin Rouge to the ancient original windmills, one can easily spend days exploring this charming quartier and still not see it all.

We take the Métro to Abbesses, one of the stations situated at the foot of the butte leading up to the Sacré Coeur, most notable for its winding 180-step staircase leading from the trains up to street level. If you are in great shape, taking the stairs could be a badge of honor and give you something to brag about to your friends. However, if you have bad knees, or you’re just not inclined to meet such a precipitous challenge, not to worry, there are handy elevators available in the Métro station. (We learned this the hard way.)

We stroll along Rue des Abbesses, taking in the sites, which include the Art Nouveau-style church Saint-Jean de Montmartre, a colorful carousel and a multitude of shops, bars and cafés, many boasting outdoor terraces, the perfect spot for spending a leisurely hour or two watching the world go by.

A few blocks later, while keeping an eye out for the park-like setting that signals the beginning of the ascent to the Sacré Coeur, we once again find ourselves presented with an option – between the sporty heroic and the urban adventurous – do we climb the 237 stairs or, for the price of a Métro ticket, do we catch a ride on the safe and speedy funicular? I think the answer to this is obvious.

Within no time, we step off the funicular to find ourselves surrounded by tourists and the attendant street vendors, selling miniature Sacré Coeurs and Eiffel Towers, bracelets, and love locks, the heart-shaped padlocks to be hung on the chain link fence surrounding the basilica. It’s best to avoid eye contact with these guys, to look as if you have an agenda and just keep moving. At the top, near the entrance to the basilica, we take a few minutes to enjoy the panoramic view of the city, and then step inside.

In spite of its Roman-Byzantine-style architecture, the Sacré Coeur is not that old. Construction began in 1875, but after losing multiple architects over the years as well as having to raise funds from the Parisians themselves, the project was not completed until 1924. The interior of the basilica is cavernous. The huge mosaic covering the ceiling of the apse representing the Sacred Heart of Jesus Christ, is a record-breaking 475 square meters, the largest in all of France. Not nearly as evident, but equally impressive, is the enormous church bell, also the largest in France, nicknamed Le Savoyarde, measuring 9.6 meters in circumference and weighing nearly 19 tons (Source: https://worldinparis.com/).

We amble through the basilica and exit to the west side. Directly next door, we pay a visit to the basilica’s somber and much-older neighbor, the Paroisse Saint-Pierre de Montmartre. Dating to the 12th century, this humble parish church, the second-oldest in Paris, has undergone a variety of iterations over the centuries, including serving as a convent for Benedictine nuns. The church has suffered multiple periods of neglect and trauma, such as the guillotining of the abbess and destruction of the abbey during the French Revolution. Nevertheless, it has survived with many of its most ancient features, such as the 12th century nave, still intact (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org).

In the glorious early evening sunlight, we soak in the delicious crisp November air as we peruse the neighborhood. Nearly every street leading from the Sacré Coeur is downhill. The slanting sunlight and long shadows cast at this Golden Hour create an atmosphere of blissful well-being.

One of Montmartre’s most scenic locations is at the ancient wooden windmill known as the Moulin de la Galette. This 17th century landmark was a real working mill where the popular brown bread, or galette, was produced by the Debray family. But the painting by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, entitled “Bal du Moulin de la Galette,” really put this place on the map (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org). Making a stop at the moulin’s restaurant for a Happy Hour beverage is a no-brainer.

After sunset, we have worked our way southward into Pigalle, the neighborhood historically known as the red-light district of Paris. While lacking the quaint charm of the hilltop village of Montmartre, today’s Pigalle has clearly cleaned up its act, with many large, well-lit establishments lining the expansive Boulevard de Clichy -- the most notable of these being the dazzling cabaret, the Moulin Rouge. The mother of cabarets and the home of the original can-can dancer, performances at today’s Moulin Rouge continue to thrill audiences, albeit at very high prices -- maybe next time…

We stop at O’Sullivan’s by the Mill next to the Moulin Rouge for more refreshments. At this hour, we have our pick of seating, so we choose a spot with a view of all the goings-on outside. Within a few minutes, a bright yellow McLaren sports car pulls up to the curb and two extremely lanky, very well-dressed and well-coiffed young people step out. We then notice a group of show bizzy looking people buzzing around the two young people who are clearly models, including camera men and a director. Over the next hour, we observe as the models get in and out of the car, filming take after take. Eventually, the young couple step into the car one last time and drive away. End of show.

A bit dazzled by this scene, we head for the Blanche Métro stop a half-block away. Despite the clock quickly ticking away on the final days of this Paris trip, we return happily to our tiny pied-à-terre in the Marais, completely satisfied, knowing that we have made this day a day to remember.